UJOH 2025 秋冬系列:巴黎时装周的服装叛逆
在 2025 秋冬系列中,UJOH 以现代视角重新审视 90 年代,向日本年轻人的叛逆精神致敬。与此同时,该品牌的创意人才 Aco 和 Mitsuru Nishizaki 重新构想了硬朗的校服,打破了服装规范,展现了自由感。他们最新的巴黎时装周秀场不仅仅是服装,而是对结构化剪裁中个性的深入探索。
UJOH 系列的核心是对 90 年代日本高中生打造的服装语言的尊重。在那段时间里,学生们巧妙地违背了制服规定——裙子穿得长或短,毛衣穿得超大,配饰彰显个性。通过专业的分层和精确的剪裁, UJOH 捕捉了这种叛逆精神,同时以现代工艺提升了它。
怀旧的廓形和工艺
同样,这些廓形也包含怀旧而挑衅的颠覆。超大开衫披在不对称裙子上,飘逸的暖腿套借鉴了那个时代的宽松袜子。挺括的羊毛华达呢大衣重新定义了制服着装,将严格的剪裁与飘逸的面料相结合,打造出纪律严谨而富有表现力的衣橱。这种并置反映了一种不断发展的身份。
UJOH 以无可挑剔的面料选择而闻名,本季延续了这一传统。此外,该品牌玩转纹理,让人想起学生时代的触觉记忆。除了纺织品,微妙而有力的细节也向日本学校文化致敬。羊驼毛毛衣从橄榄球 Polo 衫中汲取灵感,搭配牦牛羊毛护腿套,致敬 90 年代的街头风格。衬衫在手腕处变成领扣或缎带,为男装元素增添流动性。刺绣郁金香参考了日本的传统,学生们培育一个球茎花,象征着成长和韧性。
永恒而现代的愿景
UJOH 首次推出刻有其标志的银色徽章,重新诠释为校徽。这个标志象征着身份和归属感,在不断发展的时尚叙事中连接了过去和现在。
忠于日本美学,调色板保持深沉和永恒。浓郁的黑巧克力、灰褐色、瓶绿和海军蓝营造出精致的基础。电石灰色、天蓝色和精致的米色的大胆点缀增添了对比和活力。这种色彩的相互作用提升了制服灵感的廓形,使它们既怀旧又现代。
UJOH:重新定义现代剪裁
自 2009 年创立以来,UJOH 一直保持结构和流动性的平衡,以不对称剪裁和意想不到的细节重新定义定制服务。随着该品牌不断完善其美学和全球影响力,其对工艺和创新的热情依然坚定。UJOH 于 2021 年在 巴黎时装周 上首次亮相,将极简主义与叛逆相结合,在国际舞台上占据了一席之地。
在 2025 秋冬系列中,Aco 和 Mitsuru Nishizaki 再次确认,制服不仅仅是服装,更是自我表达的画布。通过错综复杂的结构、分层的纹理和对日本裁缝传统的深刻理解,UJOH 不断突破当代时尚的界限。这个系列呈现出一种既怀旧又不可否认的现代愿景。
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Sofia Alurralde calls herself a citizen of the world, a title that reflects her deep appreciation for diverse cultures, meaningful connections, and the ever-evolving landscape of fashion and lifestyle. An Argentine-Italian journalist and influencer based in Paris, she seamlessly blends her passion for storytelling with a keen eye for luxury, culture, and contemporary trends. Her work has been featured in prestigious publications such as Marie Claire, Forbes, IRK Magazine, and L’Officiel Monaco.
With a background in Communication and Journalism, along with a Master’s in Corporate Communication and Strategy, Sofia has established herself as a distinctive voice in the industry, crafting compelling narratives that bridge fashion, business, and the art of living. She thrives on discovering new perspectives, meeting inspiring individuals, and immersing herself in the creative pulse of different cities.
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