FIX & FAX F/W2020 by Katya Leonovich
城市孔雀万岁，男战士！ 修复和传真
Fix & Fax是资深设计艺术家 Katya Leonovich 设计的男装系列。在纽约时装周上迈出了重要一步。
由 20 套造型组成的走秀系列的灵感来自动物王国中的雄性物种。羽毛和鲜艳的皮草彰显了多彩、大胆和张扬的个性。该系列的主要关注点集中在结构和独创性上。这为不断扩展的男性时尚定义增添了新的维度。然而，在一些流畅的造型之外，还有对男性气质的专注表达。
大胆的色彩、奢华的反光面料和闪亮的效果令人印象深刻。Leonovich 的手工针织品采用来自印度的生丝纱线。这个系列的针织服装令人惊叹。其中一款针织衫让人联想到盔甲。这件特别的单品采用了创新的跨身设计，前部包裹，后部垂坠。前部的设计进一步体现了设计师复杂的结构和出人意料的工艺。飘逸的全剪裁长裤和衬衫突出了本系列对透明真丝欧根纱和闪亮尼龙的运用。
准备就绪，城市战士的时尚，着眼于太空探索。这也是莱昂诺维奇所展示的独特服装理念的一部分。保护性和未来主义主题出现在具有罗纹包裹特征的锅炉服中，从略带薄纱的柔和粉色到金色亮片肌肉感的无袖款式。此外还有创新。通过将蓬蓬夹克的轮廓向前推进，将其与带有高对比度皮草领子的轰炸机感融合在一起。
Fix & Fax Fix & Fax》还重点展示了一些引人注目的及膝外衣。开场的黑色漆面五彩风衣搭配金色抛光面料长裤，格外引人注目。
莱昂诺维奇本季的设计中也不乏幽默元素。这位设计师的宠物是老鼠。她以弗兰克-辛纳屈（Frank Sinatra）的鼠群为灵感，创作了一系列画作。她描绘了从打台球、夜总会到参加奥斯卡颁奖典礼等各种场合中的恶作剧。这些画作成为2019秋季系列中印花的灵感来源。在这个系列中，从夹克上的补丁到印有波普艺术图案的拉伸面料，都将这一叙事手法注入其中。这让IRK想起了伦敦男装周上的英式幽默和感性。设计师们同样以标志性的玩具和卡通为主题进行设计。
2020 年秋季 修复与传真 卡佳-列昂诺维奇（Katya Leonovich）的 作品有了显著提升。2020 年秋季系列在制作和执行方面都有显著升级。品牌在奢华纺织品方面的独创性和技术水平得到了很好的体现。在剪裁和做工方面表现出更强的 “精益求精”。在场地、模特选拔、造型设计、仪容仪表以及编辑造型的展示方面，时尚的推动力都得到了很好的体现。这个系列是纽约时装周男装缺失的一个很好的例子。在纽约时装周上，….。乐观有趣，首先通过创造性的艺术视角展望未来。这个系列的语汇令人信服、清晰明了。
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Patrick Michael Hughes is a fashion and decorative arts historian. He writes about fashion culture past and present making connections to New York, London and Copenhagen's fashion weeks with an eye toward men's fashion. He joined IRK Magazine as a fashion men's editor during winter of 2017.
He is often cited as a historical source for numerous pieces appearing in the Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, CNN, LVMH, Conde Nast, Highsnobiety and others. His fashion career includes years as a fashion reporter/producer of branded content for the New York local news in the hyper digital sector. Patrick's love of travel and terrain enabled him to becoming an experienced cross-country equestrian intensively riding in a number of locations in South America Scandinavia,The United Kingdom and Germany. However, he is not currently riding, but rather speaking internationally to designers, product development teams, marketing teams and ascending designers in the US, Europe and China.
Following his BA in the History of Art from Manhattanville College in Purchase, New York he later completed graduate studios in exhibition design in New York. it was with the nudge and a conversation in regard to a design assignment interviewing Richard Martin curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art he was encouraged to consider shifting his focus to the decorative arts with a concentration in fashion history and curation.
Patrick completed graduate studies 17th and 18th century French Royal interiors and decoration and 18th century French fashion culture at Musée Les Arts Decoratifs-Musée de Louvre in Paris. Upon his return to New York along with other classes and independent studies in American fashion he earned his MA in the History of Decorative Arts and Design from the Parsons/Cooper Hewitt Design Museum program in New York. His final specialist focus was in 19th century English fashion and interiors with distinction in 20th century American fashion history and design.
Currently, he is an Associate Teaching Professor at Parsons School of Design leading fashion history lecture-studios within the School of Art and Design History and Theory,
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