威利·查瓦里亚在巴黎的周年庆
Willy Chavarria在巴黎时装周期间于美国大教堂展示了他庆祝十周年的系列。这一重要时刻标志着Chavarria首次涉足巴黎时尚界，这次首秀将教堂变成了他独特视野的舞台。名为“Tarantula”的2025年秋季系列编织了Chavarria深刻的个人叙述：他的酷儿身份，他作为爱尔兰裔美国母亲和墨西哥裔美国父亲之子的混血背景，以及他在加利福尼亚圣华金谷的工人阶级成长经历。这些曾经被污名化的起源，现在成为了一个品牌的基础，放大了历史上被边缘化社区的美丽、韧性和自豪。
Chavarria去年获得了CFDA年度男装设计师奖，并在拉丁美洲时尚奖中被评为年度设计师，他从未掩饰自己的雄心。“我感到非常自信，非常兴奋，非常激动。我真的很高兴能将品牌的业务和信息带到一个更加全球化的位置，”他的雄心在每一条精心裁剪的缝线和轮廓中都显得尤为明显。
秀场的配乐包括华盛顿国家大教堂主教在特朗普总统就职典礼上的演讲，这对Chavarria来说是一个极其情感化的时刻。“当我听到主教讲话时，我泪流满面，并反复观看，”他解释道。“这就是为什么在这个神圣的空间播放它显得如此重要。我们现在都因为我们的权利而生活在恐惧中，我想展示我们团结在一起的样子。这其中有美，有力量，有积极性。”
整个系列展开如同Chavarria标志性大胆裁剪和浪漫化的Chicano风格的视觉交响曲。宽肩西装采用奢华的深色缎面、宝石色调的压碎天鹅绒和格子法兰绒制成，并辅以巴黎式的精致，如镶有金色纽扣的粗花呢夹克。然而，系列的核心向他的墨西哥裔美国根源致敬。超大号工装夹克、法兰绒衬衫和卡其裤通过精细的面料和精致的构造得到了提升，而中性歌剧大衣和收腰轮廓则带来了流动性和戏剧性。女性款式则倾向于性感、雕塑般的造型，包括紧身胸衣上衣、皮革铅笔裙和一件印有“Diablo”字样的醒目红色紧身衣。
浪漫与反叛在查瓦里亚的秀场上和谐共存。西装外套绽放玫瑰，西部牛仔帽装饰鲜花，而西装的感性诠释重新定义了正装。秀场中途，雷鬼顿明星J. Balvin身着蝴蝶结领结燕尾服出场，带来了一场令教堂沸腾的亲密独唱表演。查瓦里亚的审美范围超越了传统面料。意大利丝绸、丝绒和双面羊绒与品牌的Adidas合作系列相遇，呈现出灵感来自作战靴的运动鞋和可完全回收的眼镜，后者与Return to Vendor合作。与南中央项目合作创作的丝巾，突出展示了摄影师Carlos Jaramillo的《Illumine Tu Camino》摄影随笔，进一步将该系列根植于讲故事和文化记忆中。
选角同样强大，是对巴黎T台上罕见的多样性的庆祝。各个年龄、体型和性别表达的模特，包括黑人和棕色人种的健美运动员、非二元性别者以及受Pachuca启发的女性，带着蓬松发型和细眉毛，将Chavarria的愿景变为现实。其中有一位来自纽约市的披萨送货员，通过在曼哈顿下东区Scarr’s的病毒视频被发现，“能成为这样一个大运动的一部分，真是令人难以置信，”他说。“巴黎的拉丁裔不多，所以能代表他们感觉很好。这是我第一次走秀。”
随着秀场的结束，Chavarria穿着一件印有“我们如何爱就是我们是谁”字样的T恤出现，这是与Tinder合作支持人权运动和LGBTQIA+权利的一部分。他的秀场笔记总结得最好：“当雷声响起，它为你我而响。在卷起的天空下，我的吻如狼蛛的毛发般柔软温柔。”
就像蜘蛛精致而有力的触感一样，Chavarria在巴黎的首秀留下了深刻印象。这不仅是对十年设计历程的庆祝，更是对他的作品和社区所体现的韧性、创造力和尊严的颂扬。
摄影 Luca Tombolini @lucatombolini
艺术总监 Jess Cuevas @jesscuevas7
造型师 @mr_carlos_nazario
发型 @paulhanlonhair
化妆 @yad1m @maccosmetics
选角 #brentchua
鞋履 @adidasoriginals
制作 @bureaubetak
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Patrick Michael Hughes 高级时尚编辑 男装时尚作家
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Patrick Michael Hughes is a fashion and decorative arts historian. He writes about fashion culture past and present making connections to New York, London and Copenhagen's fashion weeks with an eye toward men's fashion. He joined IRK Magazine as a fashion men's editor during winter of 2017.
He is often cited as a historical source for numerous pieces appearing in the Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, CNN, LVMH, Conde Nast, Highsnobiety and others. His fashion career includes years as a fashion reporter/producer of branded content for the New York local news in the hyper digital sector. Patrick's love of travel and terrain enabled him to becoming an experienced cross-country equestrian intensively riding in a number of locations in South America Scandinavia,The United Kingdom and Germany. However, he is not currently riding, but rather speaking internationally to designers, product development teams, marketing teams and ascending designers in the US, Europe and China.
Following his BA in the History of Art from Manhattanville College in Purchase, New York he later completed graduate studios in exhibition design in New York. it was with the nudge and a conversation in regard to a design assignment interviewing Richard Martin curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art he was encouraged to consider shifting his focus to the decorative arts with a concentration in fashion history and curation.
Patrick completed graduate studies 17th and 18th century French Royal interiors and decoration and 18th century French fashion culture at Musée Les Arts Decoratifs-Musée de Louvre in Paris. Upon his return to New York along with other classes and independent studies in American fashion he earned his MA in the History of Decorative Arts and Design from the Parsons/Cooper Hewitt Design Museum program in New York. His final specialist focus was in 19th century English fashion and interiors with distinction in 20th century American fashion history and design.
Currently, he is an Associate Teaching Professor at Parsons School of Design leading fashion history lecture-studios within the School of Art and Design History and Theory,
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