0330b4_2194793a35484c76ae5d38f0e7af6cab~mv2

奇爱……你会给我吗?

奇爱春季造型和美妆灵感来自DEPECHE MODE1987年《STRANGE LOVE》….. 这是一个美妆和时尚编辑特辑,致敬该乐队2023年春季北美巡演

模特:Link Models International的Nils Bremer和NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT的Julia B.

态度的重新定义:

态度的重新定义概括了80年代末的美学转变。那是一个美、风格、时尚和音乐相互融合,创造持久文化印记的时刻。这在新浪潮时代的《Strange Love》中表现得尤为明显。Depeche Mode 1987年专辑《Music for the Masses》中的这首热门单曲反映了当时的年轻人。乐队的形象——被捕捉在粗糙的彩色杂志剪报和原始的黑白音乐视频中——成为了年轻一代风格的模板。数码摄影的兴起模糊了原始现实主义和精致幻想之间的界限,为一个试图平衡尖锐和精致的时代奠定了基础。

造型的演进:

《Music for the Masses》标志着后朋克电子音乐的转变,不仅在声音上,在视觉和时尚方向上也是如此。那个时代的时尚仍然与英国工人阶级青年美学相连,但现在加入了80年代末期对光鲜健康的偏好。粗犷的牛仔街头风格与戏剧化的化妆应用(男女皆适用)之间的对比,定义了一种受控叛逆的态度。

发型成为时尚宣言或部落归属的中心。无论是剪短和竖起,还是梳得油光发亮,都强调了质地和怀旧感的重要性。80年代可见的发型产品使用不仅仅是一种美学选择,它预示了美容市场的未来,其中丰盈、保湿和质地增强产品将占主导地位。

时间的考验:

在2023年和1987年,色调声明依然坚守其地位。这种影响不仅仅是怀旧的,而且是方向性的,引导当代设计师和美容品牌走向结构化的极简主义和实验性纹理的融合,这将在1990年代占据主导地位。长期从事美容行业的专业人士Marilyn Opiz表示:“那种风格将魅力和年轻的叛逆精神结合在一起,这种组合是我们以前从未见过的……这确实是我们最后一次看到令人向往的魅力。”

Definite Articles、MAVI牛仔裤、GOLA鞋子、24英寸14K古巴链

现代展望:对于IRK的《奇爱》专题,美学风格架起了过去和现在的桥梁,展示了来自2024年春季纽约男装日系列的新兴设计师作品,以及迎合年轻时尚意识客户的美国生活方式零售商。色彩搭配反映了对80年代末氛围的现代诠释:柔和的石板灰、灰玫瑰色、水泥色调,偶尔点缀金色贴膜和玫瑰色针织纹理——低调而有影响力。妆容也遵循这一理念,拥抱色调和谐。温暖、自然的色彩定义了面部。唇部和脸颊呈现温暖的红色,而皮肤则轻轻涂抹地球色调的轮廓,无缝融合。

眼妆边缘:

眼妆是这种美学演变的焦点。对男性和女性来说,这种造型都很引人注目又易于佩戴:用黑色和棕色眼线笔轻轻勾勒出柔和的线条,深灰色阴影和扩散的锡色,与玫瑰金色调混合。对80年代末过度的致敬体现在质地的相互作用中。温暖的毛色点缀巧妙地突出了眉骨处闪烁的金色,并延伸成戏剧性的翼状。眉毛浓密饱满,几乎本身就是一个眼妆宣言。

皮肤妆效:

使这种美妆方向特别现代的是中性色调与自然肤质的融合方式。与过去明显的粉状妆效或90年代的超光泽不同,今天的配方达到了平衡。粉末、凝胶和奶霜质地的混合,创造出一种低调的哑光效果,呈现年轻活力的风格。2023年美妆的演变反映了1987年精致和原始之间的精心平衡,证明时尚和美妆中的某些态度不仅是周期性的,而且是永恒的。

想了解更多:法国牛仔的《LAURA BLUE EYES》

Abercrombie Fitch连体衣、MAVI牛仔裤、18英寸14K古巴链
(他)Les Puces de Saint-Ouen皮革手环,AKNVAS针织上衣搭配Abercrombie Fitch连身裤,Chris Donovan靴子,复古金色Colibri盒子,德国定制手套,(她)Atelier Cillian夹克搭配Abercrombie Fitch牛仔裤,GOLA鞋子
无袖背心-Atelier Cillian-(她)Abercrombie and Fitch长袖上衣,复古Paolo Gucci项链
Atelier Cillian,Aberchrombie Fitch,复古Paolo Gucci项链
所有造型均来自Atelier Cillian 2023春季系列

IRK时尚与艺术合作2023春季

时尚指导、艺术指导和创意实践由IRK杂志编辑 Patrick Michael Hughes和Stacy Seiler完成。

Patrick Michael Hughes 高级时尚编辑,男装时尚撰稿人

Stacy Seiler 平面设计师,IRK艺术编辑

Jeff Mikkelson 摄影师:Mikkelson是一位获奖的美容和时尚摄影师兼导演,总部位于纽约,在全球范围内拥有编辑和广告客户。

Li Murillo 发型师和Meron Weyante 化妆师

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Patrick Michael Hughes is a fashion and decorative arts historian. He writes about fashion culture past and present making connections to New York, London and Copenhagen's fashion weeks with an eye toward men's fashion. He joined IRK Magazine as a fashion men's editor during winter of 2017.

He is often cited as a historical source for numerous pieces appearing in the Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, CNN, LVMH, Conde Nast, Highsnobiety and others. His fashion career includes years as a fashion reporter/producer of branded content for the New York local news in the hyper digital sector. Patrick's love of travel and terrain enabled him to becoming an experienced cross-country equestrian intensively riding in a number of locations in South America Scandinavia,The United Kingdom and Germany. However, he is not currently riding, but rather speaking internationally to designers, product development teams, marketing teams and ascending designers in the US, Europe and China.

Following his BA in the History of Art from Manhattanville College in Purchase, New York he later completed graduate studios in exhibition design in New York. it was with the nudge and a conversation in regard to a design assignment interviewing Richard Martin curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art he was encouraged to consider shifting his focus to the decorative arts with a concentration in fashion history and curation.

Patrick completed graduate studies 17th and 18th century French Royal interiors and decoration and 18th century French fashion culture at Musée Les Arts Decoratifs-Musée de Louvre in Paris. Upon his return to New York along with other classes and independent studies in American fashion he earned his MA in the History of Decorative Arts and Design from the Parsons/Cooper Hewitt Design Museum program in New York. His final specialist focus was in 19th century English fashion and interiors with distinction in 20th century American fashion history and design.

Currently, he is an Associate Teaching Professor at Parsons School of Design leading fashion history lecture-studios within the School of Art and Design History and Theory,

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