哥本哈根时装周上的跨性别行动主义
Alectra Rothschild – Masculina 在 哥本哈根时装周开幕当天展示了他们的 2025 年秋季系列。这是一次承认跨性别者遭受的残忍和虐待的战斗号召。时装秀的标题是“Give the Girl a Gun”， 灵感来自 Amy Assakf 小姐的一首口语诗。
Amy Assakf 小姐的口语诗激发了该系列的信息。这首诗原始而未经过滤，要求生存和正义。它的强度为难忘的展示奠定了基础。
“给这个女孩一把枪，让她晚上带着它睡觉，让阳光在她的脸上刻下回忆，让她走进去 未知的深处，以愤怒为火，以真诚为武器，让她射杀那些被雕刻的人 她的翅膀，让她把它们带回来，让她走路，给这个女孩一把枪，不要宽恕一个幸存者 不仅活了下来，而且带来了生命，让她的眼睛看不到孩子所看到的，并给这个女孩一把枪，让她 将它发射到他的心脏——地狱般的房间的深处，让她再次飞翔，并赠送她的翅膀和 给这个女孩一把枪。
需要关注的 T 台
Masculina 有效地将哥本哈根时装周的 T 台变成了一个关于韧性和反抗的醒目叙事。结果，模特们走路时颧骨瘀伤，肩膀受伤，表情令人难以忘怀，暴露了全球跨性别者面临的严酷现实。此外，馆藏说明强调了毁灭性的统计数据，揭示了跨性别者的自杀率是所有少数群体中最高的，有 30% 到 50% 的人企图自杀。此外，歧视继续导致无家可归和失业，迫使许多人进入生存模式。
该系列不仅承认了这些问题，还直面了这些问题。Masculina 将时尚作为宣传工具，确保这些紧急对话不容忽视。
调色板背后的象征意义
色彩故事传达了武器和生存的意象。银色、青铜色和黑色的阴影传达着力量、抵抗和日常生存之战。红色乳胶元素象征着流血的伤口，迫使观众认识到创伤和赋权。
Masculina 平衡了破坏与美丽。撕碎的连衣裙从身体上滑落，代表着跨性别生活的脆弱，但它们奢华的质地和大胆的廓形彰显了力量和自我所有权。原始与精致的对比创造了一种让人感到叛逆、胜利和无法忽视的美学。
可持续时尚与行动主义的结合
Masculina 确保这个系列不仅具有政治影响力，而且还具有可持续性。该品牌依靠升级改造和滞销材料，加强了其对负责任时尚的承诺。许多作品都采用 天丝™纤维，这些纤维可持续地来自受管理的森林，并通过闭环系统生产，最大限度地减少浪费。
该品牌还与 Mikkel Schou 合作，对毛皮和皮革进行升级改造，避免不道德的采购，同时保持高品质的工艺。Masculina 证明了道德时尚和激进主义可以齐头并进，拒绝在任何一个方面妥协。
杰出的作品和大胆的声明
Masculina 的设计引起了人们的注意。量身定制的风衣搭配流畅的层叠拼接，在结构和运动之间形成了鲜明的对比。半透明平纹针织面料的液体状连衣裙体现了柔软和脆弱，而与此同时，盔甲般的外套强调保护和反抗。
挺括的外套搭配大胆、气势磅礴的廓形，捕捉了该系列的战士般的感性。Masculina 将仿旧魅力与激进激进主义融合在一起，随后确保每件作品都传达了抵抗和赋权。这个系列不仅为观众装扮，还为他们提供武装。
CPHFW NEWTALENT 的 Masculina 时代的结束
本季是 Masculina 最后一次参与 CPHFW NEWTALENT 计划，该计划通过指导、资金和全球知名度培养了开创性的设计师。
Masculina 以其迄今为止最强大的系列结束了这一章——视觉上令人震惊，政治上无所畏惧。该品牌一直将时尚作为激进主义的平台，拒绝淡化其信息。随着跑道灯光的褪去，影响仍然存在。Masculina 明确表示：这不仅仅是时尚，而是一场革命。
Patrick Michael Hughes 高级时尚编辑 男装时尚作家
摄影：James Cochrane
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Patrick Michael Hughes is a fashion and decorative arts historian. He writes about fashion culture past and present making connections to New York, London and Copenhagen's fashion weeks with an eye toward men's fashion. He joined IRK Magazine as a fashion men's editor during winter of 2017.
He is often cited as a historical source for numerous pieces appearing in the Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, CNN, LVMH, Conde Nast, Highsnobiety and others. His fashion career includes years as a fashion reporter/producer of branded content for the New York local news in the hyper digital sector. Patrick's love of travel and terrain enabled him to becoming an experienced cross-country equestrian intensively riding in a number of locations in South America Scandinavia,The United Kingdom and Germany. However, he is not currently riding, but rather speaking internationally to designers, product development teams, marketing teams and ascending designers in the US, Europe and China.
Following his BA in the History of Art from Manhattanville College in Purchase, New York he later completed graduate studios in exhibition design in New York. it was with the nudge and a conversation in regard to a design assignment interviewing Richard Martin curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art he was encouraged to consider shifting his focus to the decorative arts with a concentration in fashion history and curation.
Patrick completed graduate studies 17th and 18th century French Royal interiors and decoration and 18th century French fashion culture at Musée Les Arts Decoratifs-Musée de Louvre in Paris. Upon his return to New York along with other classes and independent studies in American fashion he earned his MA in the History of Decorative Arts and Design from the Parsons/Cooper Hewitt Design Museum program in New York. His final specialist focus was in 19th century English fashion and interiors with distinction in 20th century American fashion history and design.
Currently, he is an Associate Teaching Professor at Parsons School of Design leading fashion history lecture-studios within the School of Art and Design History and Theory,
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