Willy Chavarria's Anniversary in Paris

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Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor Men's Fashion Writer

Photography by Luca Tombolini, Art Direction Jess Cuevas

Willy Chavarria presented his celebratory tenth-anniversary collection in the American Cathedral during Paris Fashion Week. This monumental moment marked Chavarria’s first foray into the Parisian fashion arena, a debut that transformed the church into a stage for his singular vision. Titled “Tarantula,” the Fall 2025 collection wove together the threads of Chavarria’s deeply personal narrative: his queerness, his biracial heritage as the son of an Irish-American mother and a Mexican-American father, and his working-class upbringing in California’s San Joaquin Valley. These origins, once stigmatized, now serve as the foundation of a brand that amplifies the beauty, resilience, and pride of historically marginalized communities.

Chavarria, who claimed the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award last year and was also Designer of the Year at the Latin American Fashion Awards, he has not been shy about his ambitions. “I feel very confident, very excited, very emotional. I’m really happy to take both the business and the message of the brand to a much more global position,” His ambition to helm a major fashion house felt palpable in every tailored seam and silhouette that graced the runway.

The show’s soundtrack featured a speech by the Bishop of the Washington National Cathedral at President Trump’s inauguration, a starkly emotional moment for Chavarria. “When I heard the bishop speak, I was in tears, and I watched it over and over,” he explained. “That’s why it felt important to play it here in this sacred space. We’re all living in fear right now because of our rights, and I wanted to show us all together, standing unified. There’s beauty in that, strength in that, positivity in that.”

The collection itself unfolded as a visual symphony of Chavarria’s signature bold tailoring and romanticized Chicano style. Broad-shouldered suits crafted in luxurious dark satins, jewel-toned crushed velvets, and checked flannels were complemented by nods to Parisian sophistication, such as bouclé jackets adorned with gold buttons. Yet, the heart of the collection paid tribute to his Mexican-American roots. Oversized workwear jackets, flannel shirts, and chinos were elevated through fine fabrics and meticulous construction, while unisex opera coats and cinched silhouettes brought fluidity and drama. Women’s styles leaned into sultry, sculptural shapes, including bustier tops, leather pencil skirts, and a striking red bodysuit emblazoned with the word “Diablo.”

Romance and rebellion harmonized on Chavarria’s runway. Blazers bloomed with roses, Western hats were adorned with flowers, and sensual takes on suiting redefined formalwear. Midway through the show, reggaeton star J. Balvin emerged in a bow-tied tuxedo, delivering an intimate solo performance that electrified the cathedral. Chavarria’s aesthetic reach extended beyond traditional fabrics. Italian silks, velvets, and double-faced cashmere met the with the brand's Adidas partnerships in the form of combat boot-inspired sneakers and fully recyclable eyewear with Return to Vendor. Silk scarves spotlighting photographer Carlos Jaramillo’s Illumine Tu Camino photo essay were created in collaboration with South Central Project, further rooting the collection in storytelling and cultural memory.

The casting was equally powerful, a celebration of diversity rarely seen on Parisian runways. Models of all ages, shapes, and gender expressions, including Black and Brown bodybuilders, non-binary individuals, and Pachuca-inspired women with bouffant hairstyles and pencil-thin eyebrows, brought Chavarria’s vision to life. Among them was a pizza delivery worker from New York City, discovered through a viral video at Scarr’s on the Lower East Side, Mahattan, “It’s incredible to be part of such a big movement,” he said. “There’s not a lot of Latinos in Paris, so it feels good to represent. This is my first time on any runway."

As the show closed, Chavarria emerged in a T-shirt reading “How we love is who we are,” part of a partnership with Tinder to support the Human Rights Campaign and LGBTQIA+ rights. His show notes summed it up best: “When the thunder breaks, it breaks for you and me. Under furled heavens, my kiss is as soft and gentle as the hair of a Tarantula.”

Much like the arachnid’s delicate yet powerful touch, Chavarria’s Paris debut left an indelible impression. It was a celebration not just of a decade of design but of the resilience, creativity, and dignity that define his work—and his community.