Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor Men's Fashion Writer
Images from Saint Laurent Spring 2025
Saint Laurent has always thrived on dualities—masculine and feminine, classic and provocative, Parisian and global. Under Belgium designer Anthony Vaccarello’s sharp, knowing direction, these tensions have reached a crescendo. His Spring 2025 men’s collection was unveiled, much of which was reflected in the women's collection during Paris Fashion Week. The collection continues the Belgian designer’s deep exploration of formality and tailoring, reimagining it not as a constraint but as a canvas for endless possibility.
In a world where suits are no longer bound by boardrooms or weddings, Vaccarello reframes them with a distinctively louche elegance. His latest creations call to mind the new era glamour of Roger Moore's first Bond film Live and Let Die or Pierce Brosnan’s rakish charm in Remington Steele, yet they’re unmistakably grounded in the now. Traditionally, long languidly constructed jackets and full cut trousers drape in neutral tones and classic patterns- wool beige fonce, certified wool pinstripe, Prince of Wales check in carie et noir and noir et marron to silk charmeuse shirting—inviting the wearer to embrace both comfort and sophistication. But Vaccarello doesn’t halt at nostalgia. His tailoring is as much about freedom and drape as it is about material nomenclature distinguishing types, marrying types ,while establishing sharp, bold and new standards in men's fashion..
Historically, the Saint Laurent suit , is not a uniform of convention but a statement of individuality. Whether paired with a flowing flourishing silk shirt to tucked bare chest looks. Vaccarello designs and styling rewrite the rules of menswear. It’s a vision where the traditionalist and the maximalist can find common ground —where the man who craves subtlety and those who demand to be noticed can find beautiful and unique items as well a common inflection of luxurious taste.
Vaccarello’s final Spring 2025 men’s collection for the house is a rich dialogue with fashion’s past and its future. Vaccarello’s talent lies in his ability to honor Saint Laurent’s legacy while pushing it to its outermost limits. His tailoring reminds us that timelessness is not at odds with experimentation but, rather, its foundation. By blending the restrained elegance of Le Smoking with the fluid, boundary-defying ethos of today, Vaccarello kept Saint Laurent’s rebellious spirit alive. The designer has been the creative director since 2016 and took the house into a new era, weaving his own vision into the rich tapestry left by predecessors like Tom Ford, Alber Elbaz, and Stefano Pilati. Vaccarello, the sixth ready-to-wear designer to helm the Maison since Yves Saint Laurent’s retirement in 2002, has solidified Saint Laurent as a benchmark for modern tailoring.
The Spring 2025 Saint Laurent collection feels like another designer conclusion the end of an era—one where fashion fully embraces individuality over conformity, fluidity over rigidity. In Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent, there was room for every man: the classicist, the provocateur, and everyone in between. As the designer walks this fine line between past and present.
Vaccarello’s era at Saint Laurent was reflective of fashion’s ambition of redefining what masculinity is to a vibrant a questioning generation as well as the self-assured seeking new possibilities of individuality. … Vaccarello has delivered Saint Laurent men's fashion to a threshold what is beyond who knows...
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