Sugar Coated, Candy ‘OVERDOSE’
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022 digital presentations has once again bought to light new and ascending brands. The Swedish/German brand LAZOSCHMIDL founded by Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl is an anticipated Paris Fashion Week fascination. The design team delved into the concept of ‘copy’ within their own brand. The reuse of prints and silhouettes within the brand’s script writing fashion creation process, manifested in a Spring 2022 collections makes sense like a Indie film sequel or a mash-up remix by an underground D.J only known to the truly digitally hip.
Re-imagined, hijacked and appropriated are not new by any means but what is fascinating is when one sees a successful manifestation. This season the design team partnered with Julius Hayes with artistic direction by Andreas Schmidl. The collection was filmed on the location at Fotografiska Stockholm. The result is a colorfully saturated, bathroom/backstage/ backroom sexual environment, recalling George Michael’s 1998 hit ‘Outside’ .The album was released after the singer was caught engaging in a lewd act by an undercover policeman in a public lavatory. It also affirms for a new generation the unapologetic, sexual proclivities and voyeurism of British writer Joe Orton, author of numerous dark and cultural comedies. Alfresco sex was re-branded, reworked and retold in this culturally instep men’s /non-binary fashion collection. LAZOSCHMIDL stated ‘that they were imagining the golden age of German techno via Los Angeles 2022.’ However, for this fashion lens their work recalled New York’s Stephen Sprouse’s truly downtown prints, Fiorucci of the early nineteen- eighties a golden era of color with the styling sense of Patricia Field’s gender inclusive eye.
The fashion film was broken up by a runway presentation to an empty room with a confetti finale. Advertisement slogans were placed throughout the collection on t-shirts. The messages were connected to consumer culture specifically, online shopping commands. The brand states that consumerism is in fact sexy and needed for our mental health … this sounds like a brand wanting and waiting for retail to get it’s heads together LAZOSCHMIDL’s client’s party has started.
LAZOSCHMIDL featured a wide array of prints including their famous cow print and recycled fabrication made from PET bottles. A striking noteworthy prints are the psychedelic lava and the checked OP art prints ideal for completing a truly indulgent downtown style for Zoomer generations. The knits in the collection were made of mohair a wonderful contrast to the sexy high-waist, skintight patent pants in yellow… and there was ‘rave ready tie-dye’
This was a strong collection and one that is growing and clearly poised to be popular with the swiftly returning venues and end events alfresco during the Spring/Summer 2022.
Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor
Photographs and Film by Julius Hayes
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Patrick Michael Hughes is a fashion and decorative arts historian. He writes about fashion culture past and present making connections to New York, London and Copenhagen's fashion weeks with an eye toward men's fashion. He joined IRK Magazine as a fashion men's editor during winter of 2017.
He is often cited as a historical source for numerous pieces appearing in the Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, CNN, LVMH, Conde Nast, Highsnobiety and others. His fashion career includes years as a fashion reporter/producer of branded content for the New York local news in the hyper digital sector. Patrick's love of travel and terrain enabled him to becoming an experienced cross-country equestrian intensively riding in a number of locations in South America Scandinavia,The United Kingdom and Germany. However, he is not currently riding, but rather speaking internationally to designers, product development teams, marketing teams and ascending designers in the US, Europe and China.
Following his BA in the History of Art from Manhattanville College in Purchase, New York he later completed graduate studios in exhibition design in New York. it was with the nudge and a conversation in regard to a design assignment interviewing Richard Martin curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art he was encouraged to consider shifting his focus to the decorative arts with a concentration in fashion history and curation.
Patrick completed graduate studies 17th and 18th century French Royal interiors and decoration and 18th century French fashion culture at Musée Les Arts Decoratifs-Musée de Louvre in Paris. Upon his return to New York along with other classes and independent studies in American fashion he earned his MA in the History of Decorative Arts and Design from the Parsons/Cooper Hewitt Design Museum program in New York. His final specialist focus was in 19th century English fashion and interiors with distinction in 20th century American fashion history and design.
Currently, he is an Associate Teaching Professor at Parsons School of Design leading fashion history lecture-studios within the School of Art and Design History and Theory,
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