New York’s American Fashion Reflection

NEW YORK’s Fashion Week was swiftly out of the starting gate with a number of early showings prior to its true start at New York Men’s Day. The Spring/Summer 2023 collective highlighted eleven collections a diverse, energetic mix of genderless and traditional men’s silhouettes. The team curated and organized the season beautifully, drawing fashion press, retailers, photographers, stylists, and style-savvy guests. Crowds filled the expansive spaces of DAYLIGHT STUDIOS in the Hudson Yards district.

The current cultural moments in New York, along with global observations, played a key role in shaping the themes and discussions during the early men’s fashion presentations of the week. The Spring/Summer 2023 collections reflected a spirit of creativity, optimism, and ambition. In New York, emerging fashion labels are leading the way—pushing textile innovation and reimagining classic American garments through modern tailoring and inventive draping. IRK was particularly struck by the high level of craftsmanship and the beauty of the work presented. There were several noteworthy debuts featuring fluid silhouettes and exciting new brands to watch.

Fashion Group International’s 2022 Rising Star Award

FRIED RICE NEW YORK was a finalist in the Fashion Group International’s 2022 Rising Star Award in the all gender category. For Spring 2023 designer Maya Wang presented another rich array of creative, downtown clothing in vibrant urban diversity and chosen creative New York City family. Wang’s strength is in textile mixing in a variety of similar color fabric weights and closely mirrored patterns, creating a modern textile statement in genderless clothing.

The forthcoming spring 2023 season continues to feature the brand’s earthy green tones, deeply colored denim, and cotton pieces in earthy gold and blue tones.The brand features boutique-style details such as askew patch pockets and wide pointy collars on bright patterned shirts and pastel-colored pants.The leopard for spring 2023 is a playful optical treat in drawstring trousers with suspender attachments, an often repeated detail. Over all the silhouettes were well-cut tailored pieces, particularly the boiler suits. FRIED RICE NEW YORK also features brightly colored bungee cords, allowing the wearer to personalize the look. The casting was reflective of the brand’s DNA as a plural creative client. A rich selection of youth-driven looks reflective of the constantly changing demographic in the NOLITA neighborhood on Mulberry Street and Lower East Side’s immigrant communities.

HIDING THE HORIZON

Aaron Potts tells the story of earthbound angels through nature and the elements in A.POTTS Spring 2023 collection, HIDING THE HORIZON. He drew inspiration from the 2021 Academy Award-winning documentary Summer of Soul, directed by Ahmir “Questlove” Thompson. The film highlights the 1969 Harlem Cultural Festival held in Marcus Garvey Park. It was a celebration of the spirit of liberation and the emerging Soul Music genre. The designer was drawn to the music of Mavis Rivers and The Lloyd Sly Quartette, which made him think of “how angels might be surrounding us at this very moment..” For Pott,s ” This collection explores both the sensation of ascending into the clouds and the grounding experience of standing firmly in the grass.

Cool Color Pallet

Spring 2023 was full of cool colors such as light blue, violet, purple, and white. The brand showcased its vocabulary of volume and flowing forms through striking bell-shaped silhouettes and cropped ruffle tunics.A. POTTS use fringe was dramatic statement a noted detail that seems to be a popping up all over New York collections. He showed in open woven tops and black halter-like creations. The black and white prints were quite striking the repeat on the textile was a mask, evocative of West African Art. The collection featured earth tones and moss green silhouettes throughout its signature pieces. Designers highlighted raglan sleeve jackets, voluminous drop-crotch pants, and color-blocked accents in floor-sweeping dresses.

IRK was struck by the new take on the American shirtwaist dress. It’s striking, as a genderless statement. It added a work ethic punctuation, in a collection inspired by longevity and urban endurance during times of great change and economic uncertainty. A. POTTS genderless collection is a choreographed assembly of silhouettes, a resounding ‘they chorus’ with an understanding of New York sportswear. There is a rich variety of tones suited for modern people of all complexions, the brand strives to support authenticity and who you are.

The Hubris of Howard Carter

ATELIER CILLIAN Spring 2023 collection was titled “The Hubris of Howard Carter”. The British-American designer Stephen Mikhail, looked at the appetite of the one of the truly last efforts in British Colonial acquisition at the beginning of the twentieth century. The final days of funding of Howard Carter’s patron George Herbert, 5th Earl of Carnarvon for the unearthing of treasures in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings.

This collection was a stunning statement about rich textiles and precision tailoring. The collection featured natural colors from the desert in addition to crisp white linen, blue, gold brocade and fitted earth tone knit pieces in total looks. This is an expensive, collection with rich craft and the designer’s luxurious imagination.

Fine Tailoring

What is different from last season’s debut collection is the wider color palate and variations in fabric. Looking ahead to Spring/Summer 2023, Mikhail’s tailoring is the star and a true triumph. His presentation of modern suits, trousers, jackets, and shirting shine in the variety of fabric weights and subtle patterns. His fitted suit features high two-button stances and medium to slender lapels. Designers placed bellows pockets and patch pockets on safari-style shirting and jackets. They also introduced wider trouser styles and a genderless iteration of a Royal Gurkha jacket in gold brocade with covered buttons—one of the collection’s standout modern ‘dressed-up’ statements.

ATELIER CILLIAN still managed a dash of goth and ‘consumptive illness’ in the styling, with a touch of arsenic white dusting and heavy black eyeliner adding to the theme and evoking a princely Ancient Egypt. The title and concept of the collection have an interesting adjacent curatorial discussion. The Metropolitan Museum of Art announced last year that it would return Sub-Saharan African art to its countries of origin. Other European art institutions have also followed through this year by doing the same. It’s an admitted recognition of passé colonial provenance…an interesting topic when listening to advancing discussions around the role of the King and the Commonwealth.

TEDDY VONRANSON

VONRANSON “mystics, artists, writers, musicians, those chasing beauty, healing and inner truth… ” for Spring 2023 TEDDY VON RANSON is ‘building on his affinity with desert-themed collections. They are shown in previous collections.’ The designer stated. “To explore the California desert and Joshua Tree is to be transported to another realm. The inspiration found in the desert tones and landscape was abundant… Much of my time and exploration happened in the early hours, which gave me a different perspective on desert. The early morning light cast a “coolness” in undertones to the traditional desert palette. When one looks beyond the pale landscape on rock formations, crushed gravel and sand, one begins to see the pale tones of dried grasses, desert floral and mosses canopied by rich blue skies that hug the mountain-scape in deep teals fading into clear and bright blues as they touch the sun.”

New American classics

The contemplative, poetic outlook was clear in this collection’s harmony of colors and materiality which were spectacular. The design makes a modern tailored statement, blending a languid attitude with an urban edge. There were even flashbacks of nineteen eighties styles complementary for young frames, in a drop-stance, double-breasted narrow, peak lapel jacket. A note, trousers fit right at the waist many without belt loops a nod to bespoke cuts. Spring 2023’s collection only re-affirms TEDDY VONRANSON’s goals of making new American classics. The suiting and ensemble dressing are consistent directions for the brand’s goals of capturing modern American life. It is akin to both east and west coast living and working.

A particularly outstanding look form the collection featured oversize contrasting plaids. The model wears a knee-grazing trench coat with generous lapels, styled with a wide-neck top and soft, wide trousers. The outfit captures West Coast ease, infuses it with New York attitude, and adds a touch of European flair.

Silhouette for Spring

VONRANSON’s silhouette for Spring 2023 is a luxurious, roomy style that doesn’t loose its tailored form. This is one of the few brands presented which has a sustainability statement. ” The most ethical approaches for sourcing and manufacturing in all TVR products. A majority of fabrics the brand uses are stock fabrics already in inventory with suppliers. VONRANSON proudly manufactures the majority of TVR products locally in New York, supporting the city’s garment communities. VONRANSON work place solidarity “believes in treating all employees and partners with respect and dignity creating a diverse environment where everyone can thrive.”