UNDERWATER FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY

MIRANDA PENN TURIN

Underwater fashion photography is where gravity surrenders and fabric becomes pure poetry in motion. Few capture it like Miranda Penn Turin. For years, she dreamed of taking fashion below the surface, and for IRK Magazine, she finally made that vision a reality. With a career spanning editorial classics and cinematic storytelling, Penn Turin dives headfirst into this bold new realm.

Driven by a lifelong love of water and movement, Penn Turin approached underwater fashion photography not as a fantasy but as a raw emotional experience. “No mermaids,” she insists. Instead, she envisioned a model suspended in silence, all power and poise, distorting expectation and redefining the genre.

From technical hurdles to eerie beauty, this shoot pushed creative limits in every direction. The result? A haunting, high-fashion story that turns the traditional underwater fashion photography narrative upside down—one scream, shimmer, and submerged frame at a time.

IRK: Miranda, you’ve worked across many styles of photography throughout your career. What inspired you to take on underwater fashion photography for IRK Magazine?

Miranda I’ve always wanted to shoot underwater. I learned to snorkel in my 20s – it’s my happy place. I’m surprised it’s taken me this long to shoot fashion underwater. I love shooting fabric – it’s like a special effect; fabric in motion is glorious, captured at a high shutter speed. Water changes the physics – fabric is actually much more controllable underwater. I was excited to see where that would lead us.

IRK: Underwater photography presents unique challenges and creative opportunities. What drew you to explore this particular medium for a fashion editorial?

I’ve played with underwater housings before but they’re generally bulky and hard to handle. This particular rig made the whole experience possible. 

Concept & Inspiration

IRK: Can you share the creative vision behind this shoot? What themes or stories were you hoping to convey through this editorial?

I wanted this story to be very specifically NOT a mermaid story – I wanted an angry, screaming creature making graphic shapes with her body. Our model Linnea (that’s @underwaterlinnea, check her out!) was amazing – tireless, incredible lung capacity, with a wonderful understanding of what I wanted from her emotionally. The notion of airlessness has always been spooky for me – I loved the slightly scary vibe.

IRK: Were there specific inspirations—such as art, nature, or mythology—that influenced the aesthetic and direction of the shoot?

I’m very inspired by the photographer Tim Walker – I was definitely thinking of him when I planned this story. I don’t think he shoots underwater – I’m just moved by his vision. 

IRK: How did the underwater setting impact the styling choices, from wardrobe and makeup to the overall mood of the shoot?

Of course, all the styling choices had to be items that could be submerged. I wanted a lot of chunky jewelry – happily, metal is just fine underwater – but the fashion choices had to be curated very carefully. My wonderful stylist, Nonja McKenzie, worked all her special favors.

Technical Aspects & Challenges

IRK: Underwater fashion photography requires a distinct set of technical skills. What were some of the key challenges you faced, and how did you overcome them?

I was very lucky in that one of my lighting students, Helen Brierly, is a masterful underwater photographer – she assisted me through the shoot. Ultimately, once you’re used to the housing, it all becomes easy. 

One of the issues with shooting underwater is the lighting – it’s dark and indistinct underwater. I didn’t want to use underwater strobes, I don’t like the look – instead I brought a 10 foot long, four foot wide piece of flexible stainless steel and laid it on the bottom of the pool. This made it possible to position the model to be lit naturally from both above and below.

One unexpected result of shooting weightlessly, bobbing up and down while looking at a display screen – motion sickness! I highly recommend meclizine if you’re prone to motion sickness, it’s life changing.

IRK: Movement behaves differently underwater, both for the models and for capturing the perfect shot. How did you direct the models and capture the fluidity of motion in this unique environment?

Getting the images you want underwater is much more a question of burning pixels than anything else – shoot, shoot, shoot, move around and get different angles, and cover each look thoroughly so you’re assured that you’ve got it. The model was very experienced underwater, so happily I could just have a brief chat with her before each look, and she delivered brilliantly.

Underwater Creative Process & Execution

IRK: Can you walk us through the creative process, from the initial concept development to the shoot itself? How did you translate the vision into reality?

Miranda: I always start with storyboards. I’ll pull together the initial mood board, then literally draw the whole thing – that way I know the flow of the story will make sense. 

In selecting hair and makeup, I chose two super talented and experienced artists who had both worked underwater before – the hair stylist, Louise Moon, is an accomplished scuba diver as well, so she was very comfortable making adjustments underwater as I was shooting. The makeup artist Bethany Karlyn has worked with so many huge names on underwater shoots – I knew I could rely on her.

Visual Storytelling & Impact

IRK: The underwater setting offers a dreamlike quality to your images. How did you balance this ethereal aesthetic with the editorial’s fashion focus?

Miranda: I wanted it to be magical without it being expected – the model’s attitude was the balance. I shared the mood board and the storyboard, discussed the intention – we covered specific images I wanted to capture. We avoided all the expected tropes. The images of her screaming or looking angry or frightened shot some cold dark water into the aesthetic.

IRK: What kind of story or emotion did you hope to evoke in viewers through this underwater fashion shoot?

Miranda: Everyone has seen the typical mermaid images – I wanted this story to be stronger. The expression of airlessness, the submerged screams – I wanted the images to be alluring but the reaction to be more visceral.

Memorable Underwater Moments & Reflections

IRK: Were there any unexpected moments during the shoot that ended up enhancing the final images?

Miranda: Daylight is always unpredictable – in this case, the sun from above and below wrapped the model in light, which I had hoped for. Sometimes, I’d catch a little flare from the steel reflector – couldn’t predict that, but I loved it. 

Broader Perspective & Future Projects

IRK: What’s next for you? Are there any upcoming projects or creative ventures you’re excited about?

Miranda: I’m working a lot in AI and having a blast with it. I was initially resistant, but I’ve learned that AI is not about the bot taking over our vision. AI is a creative partner that is there to collaborate with – but as the artist, I choose what images are final. It’s very empowering. The feeling reminds me most of all of working in the darkroom – sometimes the chemistry or the timing is off, and sometimes it’s spot on, but the final image is my call. And the process of getting there is pure joy.

I’m also working on a few motion projects – I direct as well – I have a short narrative that I’m casting and a music video in the works. 

IRK: For photographers interested in exploring underwater fashion photography, what advice would you offer them?

Miranda: I highly recommend finding a local dive shop and picking the employees’ brains. Here in LA, Hollywood Divers on Cahuenga are super helpful and friendly. There’s also tons of stuff online. 

Plates are important! If you’re imagining bubbles, shoot some bubbles on their own – ditto reflected light, whatever you’re imagining. Comping isn’t cheating.

Ultimately, success is about casting. If your model and crew are wonderful, it will be a spectacular day.

IRK: Where can our readers find more of your work and keep up with your latest projects?

Miranda: I’m on IG at @mirandapennturin and you can see more of my work at mirandapennturin.com. I’m also loving Blue Sky – kind of a new frontier, looking forward to their IG alternative Flashes.

Photographer Miranda Penn Turin
Stylist – Nonja Mckenzie
Hair – Louise Moon for Cloutier Remix
Makeup – Bethany Karlyn for Opus Beauty using PrttyPeaushun
Model – @underwaterlinnea
Underwater consultant – Helen Brierley