Jan-Jan Van Essche a Contemplative Fashion Exhibition in Antwerp

Patrick Michael Hughes- Senior Fashion Editor Men's Fashion Writer

Photography by MoMu Fashion Museum, Wannes, Cre, Pietro Celestina and Stany Dederen

Jan Jan Van Essche Photo by Wannes Cre

Jan-Jan Van Essche’s exhibition KHAYAL at MoMu  Fashion Museum Antwerp transforms the site into a meditative space, offering a rare moment of pause in a fashion world dominated by speed and excess. Subtitled  ‘A Time and Place for Everything’, the installation draws directly from Van Essche’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, inviting visitors to reflect on the designer’s philosophy of quiet, intentional creation. 

An Antwerp-based designer and graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (2003), Van Essche has carved a singular path in contemporary fashion since launching his brand in 2010. Known for his genderless designs that merge Japanese, Belgian, and African aesthetics, Van Essche consistently subverts the industry’s consumerist impulses. His work is defined by reduction, freedom, and respect for craft—a counterpoint to the frenetic pace of modern fashion cycles. 

In 2013, Van Essche introduced The PROJECTS, a parallel series to his annual collections. Each PROJECT is a conceptual departure, often rooted in a specific cultural or geographical reference. For instance, his debut PROJECT drew inspiration from West African Ewe and Ashanti Kente weaving traditions combined with Japanese textile techniques. This blending of traditions underscores Van Essche’s ability to weave global influences into a unified vision that transcends time and place.

Photography MoMu Fashion Museum

At MoMu, KHAYAL occupies the museum’s ground floor, its design reflecting Van Essche’s deeply considered approach. The exhibition space is arranged in the round, framed by a minimalist wooden structure that evokes both architecture and sculpture. Burlap hangings soften the space, their gauzy textures filtering  golden light that casts dynamic shadows of the garments onto the floor. The interplay of light, materiality  and form creates a quiet atmosphere, amplifying the contemplative tone of the exhibition. 

The garments themselves, displayed on wooden abstractions of the human form, speak to Van Essche’s commitment to freeing the body. The designer has stated  about his work “Unlike the classic Western approach to confine and shape the body, he seeks to provide the body the luxury and freedom to shape the garment…he removes seams, minimizes details, and maximizes comfort, proposing an experience that works from within.”  This directive is embodied in the ten silhouettes from his Spring/Summer 2025 collection on display. With their oversized cuts, layered compositions, and muted palette—including undyed fabrics —the pieces balance rigor and fluidity, offering both elegance and ease. 

Equally compelling is Van Essche’s dedication to artisanal craft. The exhibition highlights his use of handwoven textiles, natural pigments, and sustainable production methods, reinforcing values that have become synonymous with Antwerp’s fashion identity: quality, character and timelessness. By maintaining a close relationship with his materials and their origins, Van Essche creates garments that  foster a deep connection between wearer and clothing.  

Photography by MoMu Fashion Museum

In KHAYAL, Van Essche offers more than an exhibition of garments; he creates a space for dialogue—between the individual and the collective, tradition and innovation, stillness and motion. The installation transcends the boundaries of fashion presentation, positioning his work as an artistic meditation. Question poignant  in the information age is what is the rhythm of culture ?  What is the role of design in shaping it ?  

Van Essche’s vision is a timely reminder of what fashion can achieve when it is stripped of excess and strongly liked to artisanal atelier techniques. At MoMu Fashion Museum , KHAYAL is not just an exhibition—it is an invitation to imagine a slower, more thoughtful world, where the act of dressing becomes an extension of living with intention. 

Jan-Jan Van Essche- KHAYAL, A Moment and Place for Everything’ at MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp until June 8, 2025

Guest curator: Jan-Jan Van Essche

Curator MoMu: Romy Cockx

Graphic design: Jelle Jespers

Photography MoMu Fashion Museum

Photograph by Stany Dederen

Spring 2025 Photography by Pietro Celestina

Promotional Image by JanJan Van Essche