GUO PEI ALTERNATE UNIVERSE COUTURE A/W 2019/20

In the realm of Guo Pei Couture, fashion transcends mere aesthetic to become a profound meditation on existence itself. With her Alternate Universe Collection for Autumn/Winter 2019/20, Guo Pei invites us into a fantastical exploration of life and death. A space where the spiritual, the mythical, and the material coalesce. As she approaches middle age, the designer reflects deeply on mortality, not as an end, but as a dreamlike transition into a parallel world of purity and beauty.

Ancient Techniques Meet Contemporary Design

Her creations do not just dress the body; they narrate a journey of the soul. Through exquisite craftsmanship, centuries-old techniques, and a symbolic visual language, Guo Pei transforms couture into a sacred ritual—one that celebrates transformation, remembrance, and the enduring mystery of our human journey.

« Life and death are never just religious propositions or philosophical thoughts, it is also a domain which artists never stop exploring and expressing. Approaching middle-age, life and death are no longer just poetry chants. With the loss of beloved ones, you wonder what it will be like when the journey ends. Since death is inevitable, I prefer to imagine it as a dream, an alternate universe parallel to this world, where everything returns to it’s original state of true pureness and beauty. It is the start of a mysterious journey. » —Guo Pei on her Autumn Winter 2019-20 Couture Collection

Guo Pei presented her Autumn/Winter 2019/20 Couture collection at the Beaux-Arts de Paris during fashion week. China’s most renowned couturier tells a story of an Alternate Universe between life and death. With crows signifying wisdom, devils, angels, spiders, butterflies, greek godesses, and references to the Baroque and Renaissance era.

The creative director is known to incorporate ancient techniques that date back hundreds of years in order to develop her own contemporary design. This season, she used pineapple hemp fabric which is much appreciated in the Philippines. This approach is unique and consists of 7 manual procedures. The results of this textile allow for a Greek style shape resembling goddesses in Greek mythology, also portraying wisdom like the crow.

Symbolism and Surrealism on the Runway

Crows not only appeared on the arch at the entrance of the runway. Many looks had crows on shoulders, as headpieces, sewn onto the front of dresses. These fanciful props enhanced the Couture looks. These crows added a mysterious, symbolic element that tied the collection together. Other props included white, spectacular vines coming from what looks like a wound. This detail referenced the idea that from death flourishes the growth of life. Beetles, spiders, butterflies, and bees appeared as companions to the crow, enhancing the storytelling. Beautiful embroidered headpieces in the shape of horns, reminiscent of Satan, added a bold, provocative edge. Monkeys also appeared, as Guo Pei explains that humans have an animal nature.

The first look made a sensational entrance as the two models were in the same dress, slowly walking down and taking all the spectators’ breaths away. On the attire was the fascinating embroidery delicately made of the encounter of life and death, leading us into an otherworldly journey.

In addition, the garments resembled that of goblins in mini dresses in gold with covered shoulders and brown feathered details. Evil eyes on the upper legs beamed into the audience’s gazes, adding an eerie and powerful presence. Sheer light fabrics gave a flowing, voluminous silhouette. Exquisite knee-length dresses were covered in shiny pearls. Then, black and white outlined roses appeared alongside nets that surrounded a beautiful, skin-tone design. The design resembled a delicate bird’s nest. Guo Pei introduced us to her personal alternate universe as a story through her couture creations. She ended the final look with an unforgettable piece completely full of vivid flowers. It reminded us of the beauty in life.

Guo Pei Alternate Universe Collection Couture Autumn/Winter 2019/20 Shot by: Antonio SO