We were all waiting impatiently for the Schiaparelli 2019/20 Fall Winter Haute Couture show to start! To see the first collection by the new creative director, Daniel Roseberry, for Schiaparelli. The walls and floors were rumbling with the passing of the subway of New York and its congested streets all while sitting in Paris’s first arrondissement. It seems Daniel Roseberry decided to bring the town that gave him his first start with Thom Browne, with him to Paris.
The show started with Daniel Roseberry himself walking up to a drawing board in reference to his first months in NYC. He begins in silence removing first his hat and then taking a moment before starting to create and then the music starts and the show begins. As if a solo pianist he conducts his show with every drawing. This collection is personal, it is laying himself bare, showing us his vision of the Schiaparelli woman. In one show through three chapters he takes us through three very different visions.
Chapter 1 Day
In this first Chapter Daniel Roseberry modernizes maison Schiaparelli with authoritative looks borrowing Menswear inspired tailoring and marrying it with eveningwear elements. IRK is overwhelmed with the beauty of the draped-back top of saffron overdyed silk with frayed edges with sparkling pants adorned with 80,000 embroidered crystals. the Corset burgundy pencil dress with lizard detailing is sensual showing that new Schiaparelli woman is not afraid to show a bit of skin. We also adored the the Gathered-sleeve top in double organza with a black suede bandeau and paired with a nude pleated skirt. We notice that many of the looks are perhaps more wearable than past Schiaparelli collections. The cuts are looser and practical allowing the Schiaparelli Woman to be strong, beautiful and comfortable.
Chapter 2 Night
The colors are deep and dark, the inspiration is brutalism with a twist of surrealism. The first pieces is extraordinary and IRK's favorite; a grand mermaid skirt in overdyed silk faille with a jet beaded yoke. The top is a bandeau with crystal leopard embroidery, and to finish it off there are amazing balloon sleeve gloves made of satin and black lambskin. There are several suit jackets continuing the authoritative aspect to this very strong Schiaparelli collection.
Chapter Dreamtime
After a day and a night comes the freedom of dreams and Daniel Roseberry gave himself the liberty to fantasize and express his imagination. Color is at abandon and so are massive volumes. We find ourselves in a carnival, or at a disco in 70s New York. The grand flou skit in saffron overdyed silk faille with mother of pearl embroidered swimsuit bodice is a red carpet showstopper.
Daniel Roseberry has proven that he can breath new life into Maison Schiaparelli while continuing the creative vision of its founder Elsa Schiaparelli. This first collection in three operatic acts took us on a whirlwind of extraordinary, crafted and finely designed pieces.
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