Copenhagen Fashion Week 2025 RECAP

Each season, Copenhagen strengthens its position as a key player in the fashion world. The Fall/Winter 2024 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week gathered local and international press to showcase the finest of Scandinavian design. Highlights include Han Kjøbenhavn’s dark but powerfull collection, Nicklas Skovgaard creative genius… Read the article for a full recap of the latest from CPHFW.

Han Kjøbenhavn : The Dark Horse of CPHFW

Han Kjøbenhavn once again delivered a sinister yet captivating collection. This time focusing on sculptural silhouettes and bold textures for maximum impact. The show was set against the industrial backdrop of the Mineralvandsfabrikke complex, perfectly complementing the collection’s brooding atmosphere. This season, the collection titled “Oblivion” featured oversized tailored coats with dramatic shoulder constructions. Together with intricately layered knitwear, and leather pieces with raw, deconstructed edges.

Statement accessories stole the spotlight, with models wearing exaggerated chain-link necklaces and carrying sculptural handbags reminiscent of modern art installations. Founder Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen leaned into surrealist inspirations, incorporating avant-garde elements like asymmetrical cuts, exaggerated proportions, and fragmented shapes. This offered a haunting yet poetic vision. Kjøbenhavn continues to challenge the conventional, proving once more why it is a standout on the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule.

NICKLAS SKOVGAARD : Rising Star to Copenhagen’s Best?

Nicklas Skovgaard presented an evocative and boundary-pushing Autumn/Winter 2025 collection that blended raw emotion with refined craftsmanship. Set in a dimly lit industrial venue, the show created an intimate atmosphere that highlighted the collection’s intricate details.

This season, Skovgaard explored themes of duality, showcasing structured tailoring contrasted with flowing, sheer fabrics. Highlights included sharply tailored coats with exaggerated lapels, delicately draped dresses adorned with metallic accents, and knitwear featuring distressed textures. Accessories played a bold role, with oversized belts and statement boots adding an edge to the looks.

With his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Skovgaard made a powerful statement and captured all the attention for himself.

HENRIK VIBSKOV : Wearable Art

For his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Henrik Vibskov once again pushes the boundaries of fashion by merging art and clothing in even more audacious and sculptural ways. Titled “Sculptural Visions,” this season delves into avant-garde shapes and structures, incorporating visual elements that seem straight out of a modern art gallery.

The silhouettes stand out with exaggerated proportions and asymmetric constructions. Vibskov presents oversized coats with dramatic shoulders, sculpted dresses that seem to defy gravity, and trousers with unexpected cuts. Fabrics are carefully selected for their texture and ability to maintain bold forms—from rigid leather to rough wool, each material contributes to the concept of volume and presence.

Color remains a central element of this collection, shifting between dark, earthy tones and vibrant, metallic accents that create striking contrasts. Pieces are adorned with graphic prints and raised patterns, resembling wearable sculptures in constant evolution. Accessories amplify this radical aesthetic, with sculptural handbags and bold, abstract jewelry that challenge traditional ideas of adornment.

Marimekko AW25: Bold Simplicity Meets Nature

For Autumn/Winter 2025, Marimekko continues to champion its signature style. The collection celebrates the Finnish brand’s deep connection to nature. With vibrant prints and minimalistic designs that evoke both serenity and strength.

Featuring oversized coats, statement dresses, and structured knitwear, Marimekko’s AW25 collection reinterprets classic shapes with modern sensibilities. The iconic prints are reimagined in rich, earthy tones. Creating a sense of harmony between the garments and the natural landscape. Textures like cozy wool, soft silks, and tactile fabrics add a layer of warmth and comfort. Reflecting the brand’s commitment to timeless design.

Marimekko’s AW25 collection captures the essence of Finnish nature through its clean lines, vibrant colors, and playful yet sophisticated approach to design. Reaffirming the brand’s position as a leader in modern, functional fashion.

Rolf Ekroth AW25: A (new) Nordic Style

For Autumn/Winter 2025, Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth shifted away from his usual influences. Instead drawing inspiration from the dark, intense essence of Nordic winters. The collection intertwined sportswear elements with deep metaphorical layers, reflecting the harsh yet poetic conditions of the North.

With oversized outerwear, technical fabrics, and dramatic silhouettes. Ekroth captures the resilience required to endure the cold, while subtle athletic influences add an edge of modernity. The result is a collection that blends functionality with emotional depth. Offering a compelling reflection of the enduring spirit of the Nordic landscape.

ALIS : New Direction for Tobias Birk Nilsen

For Autumn/Winter 2025, ALIS steps into a new era. Embracing a fresh creative direction while honoring its roots in Copenhagen’s vibrant street culture. Founded in 1995 in the free-town of Christiania. The brand has long been a pioneer of skateboarding and streetwear, cultivating a sense of mystery and authenticity. Now, under the creative vision of Tobias Birk Nielsen and in partnership with Philip Lotko and Daniel Hesselager. ALIS is ready to redefine its legacy.

The AW25 collection merges the brand’s rich cultural heritage with a bold, modern approach. Drawing from its underground origins, ALIS presents a series of designs that blend raw street aesthetics with refined craftsmanship. Oversized jackets, relaxed fits, and sleek silhouettes reflect the ease and confidence of Copenhagen street style. While textured materials and unexpected details add layers of depth to the collection.

The color palette plays with muted tones, accentuated by flashes of bold hues. Capturing the brand’s balanced mix of authenticity and innovation. Accessories such as utilitarian bags and chunky footwear complement the collection’s focus on functional streetwear with an elevated, international flair.

ALIS’ AW25 collection is a celebration of Copenhagen’s streetwear scene, staying true to the community-driven values that built the brand. Ready to make its mark globally. ALIS proves that street culture can evolve and thrive on the world stage without losing its soul.

Rotate AW25: Redefining Copencore

For Autumn/Winter 2025, Rotate closed Copenhagen Fashion Week with a collection that perfectly captured the essence of Copencore. Blending eclectic layering, bold textures, and effortless street style. Founders Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars, true pioneers of Copenhagen street fashion. Brought their signature high-low aesthetic to the runway, merging influences from late ‘90s and early 2000s editorials with modern streetwear.

The collection featured unexpected combinations, such as leather moto jackets with ruffled details. Paired with slim black trousers, and slinky silk gowns alongside oversized faux fur hats. Signature ladylike tea dresses were given an edge with leggings. While thick wool socks were styled with patent platform heels. Showcasing the brand’s unique ability to mix sophistication with casual cool.

The standout pieces were the oversized faux fur coats in rich, natural browns and burgundies. Which have become street style icons in their own right. The models, with their effortlessly chic looks, embodied the spirit of Copenhagen cool, ready to move from runway to afterparty.

Rotate’s AW25 collection redefined Copencore, proving once again why Copenhagen street style continues to lead the way in modern fashion.

Author: Alessandro Cariani