Paul Costelloe
The fall 2018 collection of Paul Costelloe is full of historic references from his family history. The collection included custom designed prints by his son William Costelloe. Noteworthy show item was a newspaper called 'The Costelloe Times' that reported the collection has landed on Ellis Island in connection to his grandfather who arrived from Ireland in the 1870's. The collection was described as being 'a subtle reflection on an Irish heritage. The rich tales of leaving homelands in search of a new life and new dreams from disembarking to the landing stages of Ellis Island. A population ready to join millions of others in search of a new identity and creating a culture of endless diversity'. The pieces feature plaid tweeds from Magee of Ireland's County Donegal as well as the tailoring powerhouse of the English county of Yorkshire. The British and Irish narrative is incorporated into full-length coats and high wasted trousers that unite at a time of political challenge with the issues related to resolving Brexit.
The long dresses with the tight tailoring are emblematic of the Paul Costelloe brand were complimented by hand-embroidered detailing that added an additional eye-catching element to the collection. Texture was employed as a key tool for contrast and juxtaposition with undulating fibres of tweed, and flannel herringbone offset by the luxurious softness of velvet.
A celebration of the collection was evident in the enjoyment expressed by Paul Costelloe himself as he mingled after the fashion show chatting and dancing with the visitors and the press.
Tata Naka
For Fall 2018 the designers Tamara and Natasha Surguladze of Tata Naka have chosen to celebrate various folk traditions and costumes of Eastern Europe. The presentation was shown at Theatre Royal Drury Lane, against an installation of vintage Georgian carpet which spectacularly brought in for the presentation and and vision of the designers to the fore. The integration of the designs with the space made a strong visual connection which enhances the conversation between the colours and forms in the carpet and the outfits. Strong standing vintage designs were translated into modern shapes and silhouettes to create a striking collection that blends the past with the present.
This collection eclectically featured historic references to floral Russian shawls of Pavlovo Pasad from the 1800's, accompanied by the accordion pleated sleeves of traditional dance costumes of Szek.
The styles in fashion and the themes in history can be interpreted to be essentially cyclical. In a time of ongoing political uncertainty the collections of both Paul Costelloe and Tata Naka are united connecting to historical narratives to inform their fall collections for 2018.
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