Journey Through the Heart of Peru with Belmond Hotels

Belmond Hotel Monasterio was my first stop in Cusco, and from the moment I arrived, it felt like more than just a place to stay—it was a gateway to another era. Sometimes, a journey isn’t just about where you go but how it changes you. My recent trip to Cusco, Peru, felt like stepping into a vivid dream—one filled with ancient history, vibrant culture, and a warmth that lingered long after I left. From walking the enchanting streets of Cusco to indulging in the decadent luxury of the Hiram Bingham train, and finally standing in awe at the gates of Machu Picchu, the experience was both humbling and transformative. What made it truly unforgettable, however, were the people—their kindness, pride in their heritage, and the beautiful way they integrated the past into the present.

A Rainy Arrival and a Warm Welcome

I landed in Cusco late on a rainy evening, the kind where the world feels softer, almost reverent. The streets shimmered under a delicate veil of mist, and as my car wound through the cobbled lanes, a serene stillness enveloped the city. Arriving at the Belmond Hotel Monasterio felt like stepping into another realm—one of calm, history, and understated elegance.

Maria, the front desk manager, greeted me as though I were an old friend. Her warmth was as soothing as the rain outside. Sensing my fatigue and the inevitable effects of the altitude, she quickly offered me a steaming cup of muna tea. The minty herbal aroma was instantly calming, and with each sip, I could feel my head clearing and my body relaxing. “Despacio,” Maria said gently, urging me to take things slowly and embrace Cusco’s unhurried rhythm.

Maria personally escorted me to my room—a duplex suite that felt like a secret haven. The two floors were a seamless blend of historic charm and modern luxury. An antique writing desk, a plush armchair by the window, and a bed that could only be described as heavenly awaited me. Its cloud-like pillows and silky-soft linens called to me like a long-lost lover.

But what truly stole my heart was the thoughtful touch of a locally sourced fruit basket placed on the table. I reached for a cherimoya first—its green, scaly skin belying the creamy, floral sweetness inside. As the rain continued its gentle symphony outside, I curled up on the couch with my tea and fruit, feeling as though the Monasterio had wrapped me in a warm embrace.

Cusco: The Historical Heart of the Andes

Waking up in Cusco is like stepping into a living museum. Once the capital of the mighty Inca Empire—known as Tawantinsuyu—it was the beating heart of a civilization that spanned much of South America. The Inca believed Cusco to be the “navel of the world,” and the city’s layout reflected this cosmic significance. Historians say it was designed in the shape of a puma, a symbol of strength and protection, and even today, you can sense the power of its ancient energy.

I began my exploration in the Plaza de Armas, the city’s vibrant main square, where colonial churches stood beside ancient stone foundations laid by Inca hands. The air was alive with the mingling sounds of church bells, street vendors, and musicians strumming pan flutes. From there, I wandered into the San Blas neighborhood, a bohemian quarter with narrow streets, colorful doorways, and artisan workshops.

It was in San Blas that I met Pedro, a master weaver whose shop was tucked into a quiet alley. As he worked on a traditional loom, he explained the symbolism in his designs: the red for the mountains, the yellow for the sun, and the intricate patterns that told stories of his ancestors. When I bought a handwoven belt, Pedro surprised me with a small bracelet. “Para la suerte,” he said with a smile—for luck.

This connection to history and craftsmanship is woven into the very fabric of Cusco. The Inca, with their boundless ingenuity, built an empire that thrived without the wheel or written language. They created a vast road network spanning over 25,000 miles and recorded vital information using quipu, an intricate system of knotted strings. Even today, their legacy is alive in the stones, the stories, and the people of Cusco.

Sanctuary in the Monasterio

At the heart of my stay in Cusco was the Belmond Hotel Monasterio, a property that is as much a historical treasure as a luxurious retreat. Built in 1592 as a monastery, it has retained its original cloisters, Baroque chapel, and stone archways, which lend it an aura of sacred calm. The scent of fresh flowers mingled with the faint aroma of wood polish, and the soft glow of candlelight flickered against centuries-old frescoes.

One of my favorite moments was a private art tour of the hotel. The walls were adorned with paintings from the Cusqueña School, a unique blend of Catholic iconography and Andean symbolism. My guide pointed out details I might have missed—the Virgin Mary cloaked in a robe shaped like the Andes, tiny llamas hidden within religious scenes. Each painting was a dialogue between worlds, a visual reminder of Cusco’s layered history.

The Monasterio’s commitment to sustainability was equally inspiring. Every meal was a celebration of local produce, sourced from nearby farmers who worked with care and respect for the land. Breakfasts featured ripe avocados, organic eggs, and quinoa pancakes, while dinners highlighted fresh trout, fragrant herbs, and bold Andean spices. Even the textiles in my room were woven by local artisans, supporting traditions passed down through generations.

Perhaps most striking was the absence of single-use plastics. Instead, I found glass bottles, compostable materials, and cleverly designed packaging that left no waste behind. The Monasterio wasn’t just a hotel—it was a steward of the earth, proving that luxury and sustainability can walk hand in hand.

The Hiram Bingham Train: Elegance on the Move

The journey to Machu Picchu began long before the train’s departure. That morning, César, the impeccably polite and warm driver from the Belmond Monasterio, whisked me away in the hotel’s private car. The streets of Cusco slowly gave way to the stunning countryside as we drove to the train station. César, ever the gracious host, shared insights about the region, pointing out landmarks and offering tidbits about the history of the Sacred Valley.

Arriving at the station was like stepping into a carefully orchestrated scene from a classic film. The Hiram Bingham team greeted me with smiles and an air of effortless elegance, ushering me into a world of refined adventure. Before boarding, I was treated to a lively performance: a local band in traditional Andean attire played vibrant tunes while dancers swirled in intricate patterns. Their energy was infectious, setting the perfect tone for what was to come.

Once on board the legendary Hiram Bingham train, the magic continued. Inside, polished wood, velvet upholstery, and gleaming brass evoked the romance of 1920s travel. Every detail seemed to whisper elegance—from the white tablecloths in the dining car to the crystal glasses awaiting Pisco Sours.

Lunch on board was a culinary revelation. Chefs showcased Peru’s finest ingredients, presenting dishes like quinoa-stuffed rocoto peppers, tender alpaca medallions, and a lucuma cheesecake that felt like a sweet ode to the Andes.

Yet, as decadent as the food and ambiance were, the true star of the journey was the landscape. Through the large windows, the Sacred Valley revealed its breathtaking beauty: jagged peaks rising against an impossibly blue sky, verdant terraces cascading down the mountainsides, and the silvery ribbon of the Urubamba River winding its way through it all.

It was impossible not to marvel at how the Inca had transformed this rugged terrain into a thriving civilization. Their terraces, carved into steep slopes, not only made farming possible but also demonstrated a profound harmony with the land. Ingenious irrigation channels still function today, a testament to their brilliance.

Machu Picchu: A Timeless Wonder

Machu Picchu is the kind of place that words can’t quite capture. As I stepped onto its ancient stones, a mist hung in the air, lending the citadel an ethereal quality. My guide, Camilla, greeted me with a warm smile and an encyclopedic knowledge of the site’s history.

“This isn’t just a monument,” she explained as we stood in the Temple of the Sun. “It’s a testament to the Inca’s ability to live in balance with the natural world.” Camilla’s passion was infectious. She wove together tales of astronomy, spirituality, and engineering as we wandered through the terraces and temples. Her reverence for the site was palpable, and her pride in her heritage shone in every word.

One moment stands out vividly: as the mist lifted, Camilla guided me to a quiet corner overlooking the terraces. “This is my favorite spot,” she said, her voice soft with emotion. “Here, you can feel the presence of our ancestors.” For a moment, the world stood still, and I felt an overwhelming sense of connection—to the past, to nature, and to the resilience of the human spirit.